Dining
‘My passion’
Cilantro gives restaurateur outlet for authentic Mexican cuisine


Gladys Fernandez says running Cilantro Cocina De Mexico in Rehoboth Beach is exhausting but worth the effort. (Washington Blade photo by Patrick Folliard)
Gladys Fernandez
Cilantro Cocina De Mexico
122A Rehoboth Ave.
Rehoboth Beach, Del.
302-226-1000
cilantrococinademexico.com
Opening a restaurant is tough anywhere. But making a go of it in Rehoboth Beach can be even harder. The rents are sky high and you have to make most of your money during the summer season.
But despite the downsides, Gladys Fernandez, owner and executive chef of Cilantro Cocina De Mexico, was up for the challenge. She was certain that the Delaware summer town needed what she had to offer. And now, after serving a steady stream of satisfied customers for just over two years, Fernandez is doubly confident that she made the right decision.
āIād eaten everywhere in Rehoboth and never encountered the kind of refined, really fresh authentic Mexican cuisine that is my passion,ā says Fernandez, a former Arlington resident. āI just knew that if I could find a good spot with some street traffic, the people would come.ā
And find she did. Located in the center of town on the south side of busy main drag Rehoboth Avenue, Cilantro (named for the lacey herb used in many Mexican dishes) is housed in a homey green storefront with inviting front and back patios (the back patio with its fairy lights, flowering plants and candle light sconces is especially charming). The inside ā divided into dining room, bar and lounge area ā is colorful and tastefully decorated with Mexican folkloric art.
āIt didnāt always look like this,ā says Fernandez, 49. āWhen I signed the lease, the interior was painted in dark, murky tones and there was a huge mural of a swamp on the wall. Not a happy place, but weāve changed all that.ā
Fernandez describes her cuisine as strictly Mexican ā the real thing, not commercial but homemade from the cocina (kitchen). āLa comida preparada en el momento,” she says. āEvery single dish is made one at a time. Not easy when you have a party of 10, but it makes all the difference.ā
Her specialties include Chiles Reellenos Adelita (a fabulous stuffed pepper), and the fluffy overstuffed Taquitos Dorados de la Merced. You wonāt find a crispy taco here. Currently, sheās expanding the moderately priced menu to include more seafood offerings.
Born in Mexico City into a family originally from Puebla (a southern Mexican state known for its tasty amalgam of pre-Hispanic and Spanish foods), Fernandez learned to cook at her grandmother Matildeās side.
āShe was an amazing cook,ā she says. āShe used only fresh ingredients and consistently turned out delicious food. Weāre a big family (Fernandez is the oldest of eight children), so basically my grandmother was cooking all day and night. Now Iām doing the same but maybe a little more gourmet.ā
Shortly after arriving in D.C. in 1981, Fernandez went to work at a busy Mexican restaurant in Adams Morgan. She remembers her first night on the job thinking, āWell, if they believe this is authentic Mexican food, theyāre sadly mistaken. I can do much better.ā
Over the years she worked mainly as a server before opening her own Mexican restaurant in Arlington and later a bar in Adams Morgan where she learned the demands of owning businesses. She sold both ventures in 1997, but always harbored ambitions āof doing the restaurant thing one more time, but differently and better.ā
For Fernandez, Cilantro is the opportunity to get it right.
She credits her longtime girlfriend Yadira Mora with turning her on to Rehoboth Beach early in their relationship. āWeāve always been happy in Rehoboth, and I love having a business here,ā Fernandez says. āFrom the start, Rehobothās LGBT community has supported us. Weāve always felt extremely welcomed and appreciated.ā
For Rehoboth restaurateurs, the winters are typically slow, but summers are brutally busy. Fernandez works from morning until midnight or later seven days a week.
āEven though Cilantro has passed its second birthday and is doing very well, Gladys still wants to be there at all time to make sure everything is done just so. She never stops,ā says Mora. āI call her la mujer maravilla [wonder woman]!ā
Fernandez concedes that living and working together isnāt always easy, but it works for them. āIām in the kitchen cooking and Yadira is in the front of the house seating and attending to customers. An entire shift can pass with us not seeing each other.ā
Ultimately, nothing makes Fernandez happier than when a customer compliments her on the food or drink whether itās her exquisitely fresh ceviche or delicious house margarita made with fresh squeezed lime juice and agave nectar. Those moments, she says, make all the long hours and headaches worth it.
āCilantro is the result of love,ā adds Fernandez. āFor my girlfriend who introduced me to Rehoboth and my lifelong love for authentic Mexican cuisine.ā
Dining
Union Marketās Last Call Bar a welcoming oasis for all
Mixologist Britt Weaver expresses her pride and identity every day

Amid the development of the fast-growing Union Market district, spanning dozens of eateries (including a duo of Michelin stars), embracing and inclusive spaces are tough to come by. Last Call Bar is one of those ā and head mixologist and proud member of the LGBTQ community Britt Weaver is making sure this divey spot stays that way.
While buzzy restaurants take the spotlight, Weaver and Last Call are embracing the different.
āIāve made it a personal mission to ensure that the bar continues to be a place where everyone feels welcomed and accepted,ā she says. āBeing behind the bar, I see a lot of people ā I try to make sure every guest feels safe, seen, and cared for when they visit.ā
Last Call exudes a laid-back spirit, aiming to fill that neighborhood-style gap that might be missing among prix-fixe tasting menus and shiny boutiques. Eccentric dƩcor that includes painted lockers, old posters hung from the ceiling, artfully peeling paint, and arcade games feeds into the homey spirit. Patrons are welcome to bring in stickers and slap them on the bar, adding even more personality to the space.
Launched in 2019 serving sub-$10 drinks and having survived the pandemic, Last Call still maintains an unconventional vibe that extends to the menu. Itās one of the few bars that serves flavor-changing Jello shots, with the option to add nostalgia-inducing pop rocks; as well as an hour-long āteeny tiny ātini hourā for those who want a taste but not an entire glassful of liquor. Keeping things cool: koozies are also for sale. The food menuās grown since opening, with sandwiches in addition to bags of chips and shareable dips.
Last Call welcomed Weaver in 2023. While working as a bartender during grad school, Weaver was drawn to the excitement of the bar scene. After COVID, she says, she leaned into her career in the hospitality industry.
In the freewheeling, demanding bartending industry, Weaver has fought to be seen.
āPrevious jobs and ownership teams have urged me to conceal my identity, but that is something I refuse to do. It is so incredibly important for me to be able to express my pride and identity every day,ā she says.
Last Call has a pedigree from its ally owner Gina Chersevani, who also runs decade-old Buffalo and Bergen stall inside Union Market and a sister Buffalo and Bergen on Capitol Hill. Chersevani is deeply rooted in the D.C. hospitality industry, which Weaver says has a culture that celebrates creativity and expression.
Chersevani ensures that āIāve been celebrated and encouraged to express my identity,ā says Weaver. āShe has given me the freedom to cultivate a space that is welcoming of the LGBTQ+ community while also still remaining true to the Last Call spirit.ā This year, during Pride month, Chersevani launched a Pride punch card, in which patrons who visited all of her spots won free drinks.
Weaver further notes that being proud of her identity and committing to it behind the bar and in the fast-paced service industry āopens more space for other LGBTQ+ industry members to feel safe to express their own identities. Visibility is so critical in making safe spaces for the queer community.ā
Looking forward, Weaver remains steadfast in her commitment to learning and growing in the space and in D.C. She promises that Last Call Bar has plenty of events and programming, new cocktail menus, and a welcoming community spirit.
To celebrate the summer, Weaver offered a cocktail recipe to have at home with friends: Strawberry PiƱa Colada.
Ingredients
Ā· 2 ounces silver rum
· 1 ounce strawberry purée
Ā· 1 ounce fresh pineapple juice
Ā· 1 ounce coconut milk
Ā· .5 ounce lime juice
Combine all ingredients, then shake. Serve in a Collins glass, over crushed ice, and
garnish as desired.

Representing the ever-growing, increasingly recognized restaurant industry in Washington, D.C., the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (RAMW) held its first-ever RAMMYs Honors Event on June 18 in the lower level of the Watergate Hotel. Restaurant and hospitality industry professionals, leaders, and community members gathered to celebrate RAMMY special distinctions.
The event took place as an extension of the traditional RAMMY Awards Gala, which honors āthe exceptional ability and accomplishmentsā of the regionās restaurants and foodservice community. The 42nd Annual RAMMY Awards Gala will take place on Sunday, July 21, at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center.
The RAMMYs Honors event kicked off with a cocktail hour, and was hosted by author, seasoned democratic strategist, and co-host of MSNBCās The Weekend, Symone Sanders Townsend.
While there were several awards presented, this inaugural event only held onto one announcement until the event itself: the RAMMYS Joan Hisaoka Allied Member of the Year Winner, presented to an associate member who best exemplifies commitment to and support of RAMW. This year, the Carlos Rosario International Public Charter School won, a school supporting adult immigrants that includes a culinary arts program.
Other honors that evening included the Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award Winner, which was given to Greater Washington Partnership CEO Kathy E. Hollinger āfor her excellence and community leadership, increasing the profile and success of the metropolitan Washington foodservice community.ā Prior to joining the Partnership, Hollinger was president and CEO of RAMW. Hollinger sat for a wide-ranging interview on stage with Sanders Townsend, who is married to Shawn Townsend current president and CEO of the RAMW.Ā
Finally, the 2024 Honorary Milestone RAMMY Award recipients were also honored, celebrating a significant number of years serving locals and visitors in Metropolitan Washington: The Dubliner (50 years), Blackās Bar & Kitchen (25 years), Equinox on 19th (25 years), KAZ Sushi Bistro (25 years), Marcelās (25 years), and Passage to India (25 years).
As the restaurant industry grows in the city, for the first-time, the RAMMYS Honors event allowed for a unique opportunity to highlight a range of special distinctions determined by RAMW’s executive committee. Instead of being public-facing, the Honors were dedicated to industry professionals, to give extra attention and the spotlight to those that often get overlooked at the main RAMMYs Gala. These awards were chosen by RAMW’s executive committee whereas the other awards, given at The RAMMYS, are chosen by both the public and an anonymous panel of judges.
Summer, traditionally a slower time for the restaurant industry, means that RAMW is pulling out the stops for diners to try out new and favorite spots across the area.
First, finalists for Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washingtonās 2024 Wine Program of the Year will take part in promotions planned for the second week of July. From Monday, July 8, through Sunday, July 14, the regionās top wine programs will showcase their outstanding varietals and pours. The 2024 Wine Program of the Year Finalists include: Apero (Dupont Circle), Era (Mt. Ranier), Irregardless (H Street), Luluās Wine Garden (Shaw), and St. Anselm (Union Market). Each will have discounts, tasting parties, special blends, flights, and other ways to savor the areaās top wines.
Finally, the season also sees the return of Summer Restaurant Week, celebrating the region’s restaurant industry from Monday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug. 18. Participating restaurants will offer multi-course brunch and lunch menus with updated tiered pricing for $25 or $35 per person, and multi-course dinner menus for $40, $55, or $65 per person for on-premises dining. Many restaurants will also offer cocktail, wine, and non-alcoholic pairings.
Dining
Behind the bar with Moon Rabbitās Thi Nguyen
Cocktails work in harmony with thoughtfully executed Vietnamese dishes

Thi Nguyenās hands move purposely behind the bar, her all-business, cobalt blue nails gleaming under the warm lighting of recently relocated ā and highly celebrated ā Moon Rabbit. A dash of simple syrup infused with pandan ā a shrub native to Southeast Asia with vanilla-scented leaves ā moves deftly in her hands to lightly spice a cocktail that will soon receive another kick from ginger bitters.
Nguyen, Moon Rabbitās celebrated bar manager, cannot be accused of holding back flavors from her drinks. Nor can she hold back her identity and her journey. Her journey from Saigon to Maryland to California and finally to D.C., but also her journey as a proudly out lesbian, unafraid to bring her whole self to all her pours.
Boundaries, borders, conventions: these matter little to Nguyen, who left several homes to finally find herself where sheās most comfortable, and where she acts as a leader and mentor for others to do the same. Just as she doesnāt hide her identity, she also doesnāt hide that her cocktails complement Moon Rabbitās vibrant, contemporary Vietnamese cuisine. Owner/chef Kevin Tien pays tribute to his heritage as a first-generation Asian American, using Moon Rabbit as a platform for expressing his love for Vietnamese culture and food through a determinedly modern lens.
Her cocktails, then, work in harmony with thoughtfully executed dishes like chewy rice cakes under a tofu crumble and cured egg, deconstructed crab Rangoon, and wagyu-stuffed perilla leaves brightened by fermented honey.
Sitting with the chefs and acclaimed owner Kevin Tien, āwe begin by exploring cookbooks together,ā in a collaborative process, āto find inspiration and potential flavor combinations. It involves a lot of research and development, trial and error, experimentation, and technique.ā
āAnd while this sometimes leads to failures, it ultimately helps us discover the perfect pairings.ā
Her menu arrives without flavor hesitations. Cocktail names are given in both English and Vietnamese (as are the dishes), a signal that she is asking diners and drinkers to join her and trust her as unapologetic about her Vietnamese craft.
The Hįŗæt Nʰį»c Chįŗ„m (Out of Dipping Sauce) drink is composed of vodka, passionfruit liqueur, a squeeze of lemon, and a simple syrup based on nʰį»c chįŗ„mā also known as fish sauce. While nodding to the popularity of the savory martini, this cocktail also reflects the ubiquity of fish sauce on the Moon Rabbit menu and across Southeast Asia.
Other ingredients? Sesame oil, coconut milk, palm syrup, and chrysanthemum all show up in various drinks, alcoholic or otherwise. She also creates cocktails that highlight and celebrate gay icons, drawing inspiration not just from the menu and research but also LGBTQ history and culture.
This pride in her work is reflected in the pride in her identity.
āBeing part of the LGBTQ community has taught me the importance of authenticity, resilience, and inclusivity. I am unapologetic about who I am and show up at work proud of my identity, which helps create a space where others feel comfortable and supported.ā
Tien, Nguyen, and his staff are highly intentional in staffing. āThis commitment to inclusivity is reflected in our hiring practices; we intentionally build a diverse bar team that includes members of the LGBTQ community,ā she says.
Just like her physical journey, arriving in this place of leadership and comfort took a circuitous path. In the face of microaggressions and ignorance, comments and assumptions, lack of understanding and respect, she has been able to āstrengthen my resolve to create an inclusive and supportive environment.ā She ensures that sheās active in events that raise funds for LGBTQ non-profits around the DMV area, including SYMAL, CCI Health Services, and KhushDC.
āI hope to encourage other LGBTQ individuals to pursue careers in hospitality and to advocate for greater inclusivity and acceptance in their own workplaces.ā
Moon Rabbit, formerly located at the InterContinental Hotel on the Wharf, closed with a shock last year (its closure took place among a unionization drive by the hotelās staff that the hotel had opposed). Debuting in its new location in Penn Quarter in January, Moon Rabbit quickly retook its place as a top dining destination: the restaurant was recently added to the Michelin guide. In June, Nguyen herself was named one of the best new bartenders in 2024 by Punch magazine. As Pride month closes out, Nguyen remains as dedicated to her craft ā and her advocacy ā as ever.
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